Wright Training Spotlight: Kris Shean
W.U. 2 Rounds KB Mobility Complex
2:00 Wall (Alternating rounds from SHAKE to CONSTANT )
1:00 Step Ups
10x each EOS
10x TRX Knees to chest
10x Dead Bugs
10 Rounds Each finger position Hangboard Cycle
2 finger (middle , pointer)
2 finger ( middle. ring ) or 4 or 3 finger crimp
This coming week will be the start of the 3rd week of a 8 week 2x per week progression in our climbing fitness cycle.
This is the 4th year i have been coach climbing specific training and each year I tweak the programming in small ways.
This year I am focusing more on mobility exercises during the sessions as well as increasing the time spent climbing. In previous cycles i have been wary of how much time climbing was spent during each session. This is a progression cycle so the time spent always starts out at a lower duration and slowly increases up to a certain max, but this year I am going to push it a bit further. In order to do this i need to spend more time training the finger tendons, grip strength, and overall work capacity of the climbers.
This session will start with a great total body warm up that requires single arm movements using kettle bells. Very difficult mobility warmup.
Moving into the climbing wall specific portion 2:00 rounds alternating between shaking (resting) and constant (no rest) followed by fast paced step ups for a minute then total rest. This will be the first time the climbers will be on the wall for this duration of time. Previous time loads have been 1:15 for ten rounds with a 1:15 rest . So actually total time spent on the wall will be similar.
Core work is a constant in this cycle and this short hit works.
The Hangboard cycles are always done at the end of the workouts when the athletes are fully warmed up but not fatigued. I encourage and coach my athletes to be careful and mindfulwhen loading these specific hangs. It is very easy to still work the specific finger grip while taking some of your body weight off with a foot or two feet on the ground versus straining to full body hang and risking a tendon injury. The goal of this programming cycle is to condition you for the upcoming climbing season.